Here Karl Anders gives us an insight in how he makes knives.

This is how I do.

When I choose a blade, I’m often able to visualise the completed knife. Other times I spend long time considering what kind of wood, inlays, etc. to use. When I have decided what materials to use, I always start with the front plate (for the front plate I often use ebony, horn, whale tooth, silver or brass). I always use a front plate, partly because I think it looks good, and partly because it’s relatively easy to make the hole for the tang in a plate 4-10 mm thick. In the front plate I drill a line of holes, with a diameter somewhat smaller than the thickness of the tang. The I carefully move the drill back and forth, until the hole has been "carved out". Then I start to work with a small file, until I have a close fit between the hole and the tang/blade. At this point it is very important to polish the front plate on the "blade side", and then adjust the hole again. Between the front plate and the inlays I often use a piece of ordinary cardboard - it gives a sharp transition, and looks good in itself. Then I drill the hole in the inlay and the handle material as described above. For this I use a somewhat thicker drill, as the hole will not be visible. Then I glue it all together with an epoxy glue (the cardboard is OK if you soak it in glue). All the parts are fixed in a clamp - remember to wipe away excessive glue from the blade using a rag soaked in spirit!

Next day I start with my band sander. I start working the top of the handle, and when I have removed as much material as I dare, I draw a line in prolongation of the blade (from experience I know I can’t just work by eye). Then I grind the sides close to the desired shape, and finally the bottom. When I have dusted myself off, I start the more accurate shaping using different files. Then the sanding starts with 80 grid and gradually moves on to 1000 grid. If all marks from the sanding-process are removed, I put the handle in a jar filled with Danish Oil. I leave it there for approx. 30 min, and then wipe away the excessive oil with a soft cloth, and leave the knife to dry.

Then comes the leather work. I use semi tanned leather. It is easy to work when it is wet, and have some remarkable qualities. I leave a suitable piece to soak in water for approx. 15 min., wrap it in plastic and leave it in the fridge until the next day (my wife has gotten used to it by now). In the meantime I measure the handle and the blade and make a template in cardboard. When the leather is right, I transfer the shape of the template on to the wet leather, and with a sharp knife I cut it out. With a special tool I mark the position of the holes, and when I’m sure there is an equal number in both sides (again experience..!), I make the holes with an awl. Then I sew the sheath using "saddlers stitches", and finish by sewing 3-4 stitches backwards before the thread is cut. Then I wrap the knife in broad tape, gently put it in the wet sheath and pray my measurement was correct. If everything is OK I mount the strap on the back, but first I smooth the seam using a pauting tool, so I almost don’t have to work it afterwards. Then I paut squeeze /press) a pattern in the wet leather. While the sheath dries up on the knife, I go over the pattern again and again, until it is completely dry. Now it’s time to dye the sheath with leather dye. If I want to use 2 colours, e.g. a black background with a red pattern, I start by dying the entire sheath red, and then very carefully apply the black. When it’s all dry, I apply leather hardener on the inside, and leather grease on the outside. Finally I remove the tape from the handle, and hope the result match my efforts !

Karl Anders